Monday, August 22, 2011

Pt.2 To Flagstaff and Beyond

Wupatki NM

Thursday:

Today is my last night in the yurt, my last night in Flagstaff. There are three National Monuments close to Flag. I decided to hit them all up in one day. My first stop was Sunset Crater. Lava flows, lava rocks, all very pretty, but my calve muscles felt like string cheese tearing apart whenever I walked so the idea of hiking through a lava bed just didn’t sound appealing. From there the road took me to Wupatki National Monument, here there were about five ruins, each characteristically their own but at the same time quite unified.  I managed to visit all of the ruins. The larger complex, the Wupatiki Pueblo, had two ancient ball courts. I decided to set the self timer on my camera and entered the ball court for a ridiculous stupid faced photo. I stood there like an ass and realized that the camera didn’t capture my stupidness. I began to approach my camera which was located at the only entrance/exit to the ball court, and under the step, tightly wound was a rattle snake…well, it was a snake, I didn’t approach it to find out exactly what type…but who really cares. What do I do now? I assess my situation and realize that my only option is to climb the five foot stone wall. Ah the escape plan has manifested in my brain! I run over and try my foot hold on the wall, of course, the stone isn’t protruded enough for my feet to grab. My second attempt was successful  and I was able to push myself out of the “snake pit”. I was a little frazzled but I handled it like a pro!
Sunset Crater NM


My final journey was to Walnut Canyon National Monument, I had to descend 200+ steps to some mediocre cliff dwellings, I thought my knee was going to give out on the way down.

Around 3:30pm I made it back to the yurt. I had decided to further my adventure to Canyon de Chelly the following day. I packed up the non-essentials, made chili and tamales on the grill, and retired myself to the yurt. Old neighbors gone, new neighbors emerge, but today I didn’t feel like being social. The clouds began to darken and the smell of rain filled the air. I lit the wood burning stove and watched the flames dance. A warmness filled the yurt as the sound of thunder rang the sky. Alarm set for 6:30am.



­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­Friday:
6:30am, it’s cold outside and damp due to last night’s rain. I changed and packed the rest of my belongings into the car. I hit the road by 7am. Flagstaff is busy in the morning with kids off to school, and people off to work. I waved goodbye to the Kachina Peaks and headed east. I have a four hour drive ahead of me. I’m on hwy 40/66 so of course there are many roadside anomalies, I had to hold back the temptation to stop at the concrete teepees and hideous dinosaurs, I’ll hit them up on my way back. I’m in a hurry to get to Canyon de Chelly. Finally my exit approaches and I head north on 180. I’ve entered the Navajo Nation. I suddenly feel like a tourist. I drive past two teenagers pumping water from a well…the things we take for granted. I drive this long road and enter the Painted Desert. Reds, oranges, browns all stratified across the valley. How fortunate I feel to be seeing this.

I enter Chinel, Az. a reservation town that seems to be doing well due to all the tourists. However, it still feels like a third-world country. I can’t help but feel like I’m being judged.

I enter the park and am ecstatic to find that everything is free! I went to the visitors center and purchased a new sticker for my car. I proceeded to the campground to find it about 20 percent full. Awesome! There’s even a real bathroom, with real running water! No showers though, damn it. Oh well, I washed my face and hair in the sink and that gives me a much needed refresher.

I set-up camp, which doesn’t take long, and I ready my car for a sleep over. I have some time to kill so I head to the north rim of the canyon. There are two view points from on the north from which you can see some ruins. As I approach the entrance to the cliffs I’m accosted by natives trying to sell me jewelry and pottery. I kindly refuse and make my way to the Antelope House overlook. It’s breathtaking. Almost as awe-inspiring as the Grand Canyon. Rich in deep red colors, and inhabitants still farming the fertile soil below.

I look at the map obtained at the visitor’s center and see that all access to the canyon is merely visible through these outlooks. Only one trail exists for the public to hike, the rest you have to hire a Navajo guide. I feel a little jiped, and a little bored.

I flee to the next outlook just to be accosted again. No thanks I say as my frustration grows. I fear the salesmen so I retreat to my camp. When I get there I find I have a visitor. Her name is Molly, or at least that’s what I called her. She’s a mangy reservation dog looking for a hand-out. Of course, I’m a sucker so I feed her a tamale and a hot dog as I prepare myself a tuna sandwich. She’s good company and hangout with me. She goes to check-out newcomers, then returns for some friendly conversation. She’s a good listener, and I wanted to take her home with me.
"Molly"

As the day continues I get a non-four legged visitor. His name is Gilbert he’s a local that teaches painting classes, he's a traveling artist that visits many landscapes. He comes over to talk about the weather. I can tell he’s thirsty for some conversation. Molly has left, so I decide to go ahead and talk. I was making diner so I offered him some, he accepted. He told me stories of Puerto Rico and Massachusetts where he visits to pain. Also he suggests that I visit monument valley. After about an hour the park ranger comes by the let us know that they will be giving a talk about the canyon…yes! an excuse to finish this conversation. I politely indicate that I’m going to get ready to go, and he retreats to his car to finish reading his newspaper.

This place is a little weird so I’ve decided to only spend the night. I’ll awake in the morning and go the short 2 mile hike to the bottom of the canyon, then head off towards Globe. Not sure were I’m staying, let alone going, but that’s the purpose of this trip. 

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